A Visit to Derry

If you are in Northern Ireland, you would be remiss if you did not visit Derry. Most people know Derry as Londonderry, however, the process is in place to officially change the name back to Derry.

Derry is a pretty city. The violence that was there twenty years ago is almost a thing of the past. The people are working hard to overcome the feelings that caused the violence and they are doing a good job of it. They are not completely finished the process yet, but they are getting there.

Derry was a city that was divided along religious lines. It was the Catholics against the Protestants but as the younger generation grew to become adults, they did not understand why there were such problems. As most people are aware, many of the younger generation do not go to Church and even those that do have no idea why the fighting went on for so long.

The people of Derry are working out their differences and both sides of the conflict want the violence to end. Housing for the working class is becoming equalized for both Protestants and Catholics. Job opportunities no longer specify religious preference. Stores cater to all.

The people are also being cautious. There is a wall in one of the areas of Derry that separates homes of the Protestants from homes of the Catholics. The people on both sides of the wall were asked if they wanted the wall to come down. People on both sides said no because they don’t want to chance an outbreak of violence. This wall is not the only wall that is in Derry.

The location of the barracks for the military also has a wall that was meant to help protect the British Army. Some of the guns are still in position but these are older cannons that do not get fired. We had the opportunity to walk along the top of the wall in Derry and you can see that it was strategically placed. It also provides a pleasant walk on a nice spring evening.

When you look over the city of Derry, you can see where the churches are and the amount of land that Derry occupies. One of the pictures that I took looked like the fog had rolled in and that it was quite dense. About ten minutes later, we looked out the window and the view was sharp except for one area in the distance. Ten minutes after that, you could see rain falling nearby but the whole view was clear. It was the rain that caused the view to look like it was affected by fog.

The Irish have a saying, “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes and it will change.”

Doagh Famine Village

Doagh Famine Village is an outdoor museum in County Donegal just over half an hour from Derry. The village itself was lived in until about 20 years ago by the family of the man who owns this museum. The displays are mostly under cover due to the amount of rain that falls. This is a seasonal museum, open from the middle of March until the end of October.

Doagh Famine Village follows the history of a family from the 1840s until today. Almost all of the buildings have thatched roofs and are interesting to see. The tour was led by Pat Doherty who started off in the house that he grew up in. I think that it was a shock to many of us that people still lived in houses that dated from the mid 1800s and in conditions that we would find difficult to believe. The people in the area depended on the sea for a lot of their food resources. Mr Doherty gave us a description of how the food was gathered and prepared.

Mr Doherty also gave us a good description of how daily life was like when he was growing up. This was not much different from what his ancestors had experienced in the mid 1800s. The houses were generally simple, a kitchen where most of the household work was done, possibly a parlour where guests would have been entertained. But many a young one would get into trouble when they went in with dirty shoes or clothes. A room for parents to sleep in and usually a loft for the children. There were no bathrooms as we know them. The family washed at the kitchen sink and used an outhouse. Bath night was when the wooden bathtub was hauled out and filled with hot water that had been heated over the kitchen fire. The father of the family would have his bath first, followed by the mother, and then the children from oldest to youngest. Clothes were washed by hand and then dried by wind power.

After Mr Doherty was finished his tour, he told us about some of the other displays that were available including the display showing how the republicans were kept safe from His Majesty’s forces, and the Haunted House. There is even a display for the Travelling People, otherwise known as Tinkers, or in some cases, Gypsies.

The houses each had different displays including a kitchen, a parlour, an Irish wake, and others. It made for an entertaining and educational afternoon. One of my favourite amusements was the Haunted House. After all, I have been through Nightmares in Niagara Falls. Why wouldn’t I go through a mere haunted house?

Would I go again? Yes, I think that I would as history is sometimes hard to understand with one reading or one presentation. The village did have some focus on the Great Famine, but I found that it had more focus on the politics of a violent time period covering the establishment of the Republic and the consequential establishment of Northern Ireland, with its problems and some of the solutions that came from the persistence of the Irish people for peace.

The Dark Hedges

I don’t think that there is anything manmade that can honestly outdo what Nature can produce. In every country, there is that piece of Nature that makes you stop, say “WOW”, and drink in the sight. In Northern Ireland, the Dark Hedges is a very strong contender to be known as such as sight.

The Dark Hedges are not far from Ballymoney, on Bregagh Road in Stranocum, leading up to Gracehill House. This house was named after Grace Lynd, wife of James Stuart, and was built approximately 1775. The property stayed in the Stuart family for many years.

James wanted to give the entrance to the house an impressive look, so 150 beech trees were planted. As they grew, their branches became intertwined to form a tunnel. 200 years later, the tunnel has become a very impressive tunnel.

 Apparently, beech trees usually only last about 150 to 200 years. Currently, there are about 90 of the beech trees that are still living. In 2004, a preservation order was placed on these trees as the government did not want to lose these trees, but they also had to keep the area safe for road users. The Dark Hedges Preservation Trust was set up so that these trees would be cared for properly.

This stretch of road was known, but no one seemed to remember where it was. It was desired that the Dark Hedges be found so that they would be able to use to attract tourists. They did find it and it was put on the map. A few years ago, the makers of Game of Thrones used the Dark Hedges as the scene in season 2 episode 1 where Arya Stark is disguised as a boy on her way north on the King’s Road with her companions. There are people who go to Northern Ireland just to see this stretch of road.

There is also a ghost story that is attached to this landscape. It is the ghost of the Grey Lady who wanders the road and there are a couple of different versions that are circulating about. I will leave you to hunt up those stories.

More recently, however, there was an unfortunate incident happen. On the 29^th of January of 2016, (yes, folks, this year), Storm Gertrude caused three of the beech trees of the Dark Hedges to be uprooted. There were other damages involving branches with some of the other trees, but the three trees that were uprooted could not be saved. Many people were upset or disappointed that this had happened, but there was nothing that could be done about it.

I thoroughly enjoyed the sight. I even took the opportunity to walk closer for a short distance to get some pictures.

Public Records Office of Northern Ireland

While in Belfast, it is a must to visit the Public Records Office of Northern Ireland, (or PRONI for short), if you are going any sort of research that involves records from Northern Ireland. PRONI is the official archive for Northern Ireland.

When you first walk into PRONI, you will find that it has an open concept that allows you to see some of the second floor. The stairs are about the middle of the room with security at the front, and a place to get your reader’s card, or fill out the application for it if there is a problem with the computer system.

Before heading upstairs to the Reading Room, you need to realize that there are certain restrictions that must be observed. On the first floor, there are lockers provided for all those things that you brought but cannot take into the Reading Room. There is also a cafeteria available for something to eat at lunchtime.

On your first visit to PRONI, you will go through an orientation. They will show you how to determine what you need, which includes going through databases, using computers to access the internet, and more. You can also ask to talk with a professional genealogist who will not be doing the work for you, but will guide you about what direction you should take.

There are actually two rooms on the second floor that you will be working in. The first room will be the room that you go through the looking at the databases, going through the books, and accessing the internet. This room also holds a number of microfilm readers for use by patrons.

The second room on the second floor is the Reading Room. It is in this room that you will order any book or document or box that you want to look through for the information that you are looking floor. Once the order is placed, it usually take only a couple of hours or less for it to be delivered to the Reading Room. There are plenty of tables for use in there.

PRONI also has a website: https://www.nidirect.gov.uk/proni

If you are planning a visit to PRONI, you really should go to their website. It will give you all the information that you need to know before going, such as the address, the hours that it is open, what type of preparation that you can do before going, and so on. Another thing to be aware of is that you can use your digital camera, but you must ask permission at least three weeks in advance. The documents are not online, but the pamphlets are there to let you know how to access the records in the archives during your visit.

I was disappointed to find that there are no records that are on the website. There may be some available through Find My Past or Ancestry. I don’t know for sure. Maybe some day, PRONI will follow the example of Library and Archives Canada, The National Archives of Ireland, and The National Archives at Kew and have access to at least some of the more popular records or even just the databases through its website.

The Ulster Historic Foundation

There is an organization that is devoted to the preservation of the documents for the Province of Ulster in Ireland. Many people outside of Ireland have a misconception of Ulster. The Province of Ulster has nine counties, six of which are in Northern Ireland. The other three are part of the Republic of Ireland. The six counties that are part of Northern Ireland are: County Antrim, County Armagh, County Cavan, County Down, County Fermanagh, County Londonderry, and County Tyrone. Counties Cavan, Donegal, and Monaghan are in the Republic. Even though the headquarters for the Ulster Historic Foundation is in Belfast, they do search out the records for the three counties that are in the south.

When an appointment for a tour group is booked, it usually begins with a slide presentation explaining the history of some of the history of Ulster. The presentation that I was at included information on the Ulster Plantations. This was information that I had never heard before. I do have an understanding of European history but I do admit that I have never really taken the opportunity to study Irish history. This would be an interesting topic to study.

After the presentation, a break for refreshments will take place. During this time, you will have a chance to look at some of their literature that will give you an idea whether or not you will need to look at their holdings, browse through their bookstore, and just chat, asking questions about their organization.

Some of the members of our group were able to have some time to discuss their brick walls and how to solve them with members of the Foundation. At this time, the only thing that I could do any research on was the origins of the surnames that I am researching. I found that three out of my major four Irish surnames that I am researching have roots in England.

We spent about three to four hours at their facilities and, I believe that each one of us walked out of there with a bit more information than before we went in.

The Foundation has a website at:

http://www.ancestryireland.com/

They have a number of categories that you can look at, and under each category there are a number of pages that have different topics. Most of these pages you can see without being a member, but if you want to look at any of their databases, you need to be a member. Membership costs in the neighbourhood of £38 a year, £99 for five years, or £230 for a lifetime membership. They also have a Family Research Starter Kit for £47.99 which includes a year’s membership, 24 credits, Researching Scots-Irish Ancestors, and more. There is also a pay-as-you-go option but it won’t get you into their databases.

If you are planning a trip to Ireland and you have research to do in Northern Ireland, you might be best to take out a membership and have a good look at their databases. I have looked at the list of databases and have seen that there is at least one of them that I would like to look at. By looking at their databases, you should be able to find something to help you along your way.

Currently, I am not a member of the Guild but I am not ruling out the possibility that, in the future, I may find that their holdings may help my search.

The Foundation does send some of their members on tour in North America, and, (now this is according to me), Europe or other places where Irish ancestors migrated to when they had to leave the Emerald Isle. Part of the reason why the Foundation does this is to make people aware that they exist and that they do have these holdings. Another reason why this is done is for fundraising. This organization does not receive any money from government sources and depends on sales, research fees, memberships, and donations.

The Presbyterian Historical Society of Ireland

If you plan to do any family history research in Northern Ireland and you have ancestors that emigrated to Northern Ireland from Scotland, this is a good place to do some research. Before we left for Ireland, I planned on visiting their facilities. However, when I was at PRONI, I decided to spend my time there rather than go to a facility that may not have anything that I am interested in as some of my Irish ancestors were Methodists and the records that I needed to access if I had enough time would be in PRONI. Afterwards, I was assured that there may have been some records that may have helped me in my search.

Most of the information that I present here was gleaned from the website. Their website looks like it’s fairly easy to use. They seem to have it well organized and they have a slide show explaining some of the history of the Presbyterian Church in Ireland.

If you are working on your family history, they do state that they do not have a comprehensive collection, but they will do the best that they can in order to help you. If you are interested in hiring a researcher, they direct you to go to the PRONI website and choose from the list of researchers there.

The website lists what is held in their library, in their archives, and how donations and indefinite loans can be made.

There are a number of documents that have been digitized and can be accessed online. The only problem is that you need to have a paid subscription or membership in order to access the information available. It currently costs £16 per year. When you look at the cost and compare it to some of the fees for other websites, £16 really is not very much money. Unless you are going to Ireland to visit other places as well, you may just find what you are looking for on your computer in the comfort of your own home.

If I find that the Presbyterian Historical Society of Ireland is one of the places where I can find records of my ancestors, yes, I would use the website and pay the fee so that I can access the information. You never know just where you may find something about that elusive ancestor who doesn’t seem to want to be found.